J5 280 TurboDiesel overheats randomly...

Die Möglichkeit zur Neuregistrierung wird am 14.05.2024 wieder frei gegeben.

    After all things done the problem is still there, so eject the thermostat and drive without this.

    LG Cerberus

    Nichts ist so beständig wie der Wandel ( Heraklit von Ephesus )

    OKay so update!

    I thought I had all air out, a test ride of about 15km was ok, let some air out after.

    Yesterday we went to a wedding 100km from home, after 50km (we did not touch the heating) the was a sound from the dash and the overheating started again...

    We stopped 3 times on the shoulder, decompress, refill, go for some km...

    The way back today, no problems...

    I took the dash out, took the hoses to the heating out and the heating rad. Lots of flushing and cleaning with a pipe brush. There was still a lot of brown water and dirt from the hoses. I think this system was blocked and keeping air bubbles as surprise attacks for us :)

    Now I got it all out the question is, do I use the still okay rad from Valeo from 1989, or o I get a new one. Are they any good?

    And a picture of what to do when you mess up the spare wheel plate... It's a 19t sprocket from a bike and a big ring :)


    Change all against new parts,then you are on the safe side.I had some years ago such a problem,I changed the watercooler after I had drained the system,and the solution was done.I can manually control the Ventilation of the engine and must not wait until the thermostate likes to work.I mounted an additional Oilcooler with own ventilation and now all problems are history.


    Greetings Arno

    Tomorrow a fresh box of parts arrives! Also the radiator cooling sensor/switch.

    I tested my fans, one is dead :( so I open it tomorrow, fix it or get another one.

    Which cable is for the first low temp fan?

    I guess its the double connector, and the single is high, but not sure. (Double connector fan was working)


    I also made an extra swith in the dash for emergency fan operation :) just pinned the cables in the back of the relais, cool!


    another question, there is 4 more relais positions right side of the fuse box. The two left are with standard relais, other 2 empty. Anybody knows what they are for? Can’t find an easy manual answerfor this :)

    How is the overall condition in the engine room? Does it look "original" to you? I'm asking because the pipework of that engine is a liitle, let's say special. Is that ball (click me) on the back of the engine still there? You find it right to the air inlet for the heater at the bulkhead. If the cooling system was changed this could be the reason for you problems. I'm pretty sure you will always have some steam bubbles building up in the cylinder head. If these bubbles are not continously removed from the system they could lead to your symptom.

    How is the condition of the v-belts? Especially that double one which comes from the camshaft and drives the water pump. You wrote that you heared a sound and then it started to overheat again. Maybe you have a problem with one of the ancillary unit's bearings. Combine that with a loose belt to the water pump (or even one of the two missing) and you might get a non rotating pump.

    Regarding your question about things to do before going on a longer roadtrip: Wolfgang (limnes) nailed it. I would add all that v-belts to that list. Order them twice. They cost almost nothing, and take almost no space under the seat. Also ensure that the double belt of the water pump is NOT a ribbed belt. Get a few SPZ 812. Also take care of the tensioner. It is mounted on the inside, not on the outside. (That is why a ribbed belt does not work here.)

    Regarding injection nozzles: If you dare to do it by yourself, the nozzles are cheap. All you need is a wise bench (to get them open), an ultrasound cleaning bath, some copper rings, new nozzles and somebody that will adjust the opening pressure afterwards. (Mine were adjusted in a tractor workshop for around 50€.) If you want to do this by yourself, please open a separate thread here and @ me and Wolfgang. I read only sporadically.


    Grüße, Sebbi
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    Thanks for the tips! About the round pot, yes I found it this winter, and took care of it with a cut up bleed valve!! Look at the pics :)

    Belts are new and correct type. The tensioner works good and rolls free, as all other things. The sound was definately air/dirt escamping from the heating rad.

    I got the whole heating system out, and clean, and did a test drive with confidence, nice temp reading and opening and closing the heater does not have any influence on the temp or sound anymore! Checked with infrared thermometer and temps were as to be expected on all couplings.

    Okay, so your bet is still on dirt in the system.

    If you had flakes flying around in the water system I would highly recommend to clean the oil-water cooler on the back of the motor using sulfamic acid. (That's what professional cleaners for espresso machines contain. Works ten times better than citric acid and doesn't mess with aluminium. You can order it for cheap on ebay, don't mix it above 10%.) There is a special o ring between the flange and the cooler which is expensive and hard to get. Also you would need new o rings to seal the flange to the block if you remove it. It should be possible to fill it with sulfamic acid using two hoses and a syringe while mounted. Also you don't have to empty the oil system this way. Flush excessive, forward and backward with a garden hose afterwards.

    That oil water cooler is crucial for a functioning cooling system as the turbo charger emits a lot energy into the oil. If it's clogged you will have a bigger problem soon.

    Grüße, Sebbi
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    Guckst Du in Post #1,

    Zollie schrieb:

    Zitat

    Hello Ducato-friends! I will write in english, because my German is not good enough for these technical things. Feel free to answer in German if you like, I will understand :)

    Zitat von ulysser

    Warum schreibt man nicht in Deutsch :(!

    Weil ich der Sprache mächtig bin und der TE es dann einfacher hat. Hat auch mit Präzision zu tun. Kannst eh nix mit den antworten anfangen, passt nämlich so gar nicht zu einem 244er mit 2,3jtd ;)

    Ich war übrigens schon kurz davor meine Antworten zweisprachig zu verfassen. Allerdings brauch ich für so einen Post dann auch eine Weile weil es eben nicht meine Muttersprache ist. Jeden Fachbegriff hab ich dann auch nicht in Petto. Den Mehraufwand habe ich mir schlicht gespart.

    Grüße, Sebbi
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    Also!

    Today a 70km test drive, temperature was good. At home, reversing in my driveway... temperature rising to 90! Let some air out of the heating rad and out of the big rad, below 90 again.

    I hope that after the 70km ride these were the last air bubbles!

    Hallo, mal eine Frage:

    Warum schreibt er in englisch und viele die dieser Sprache nicht mächtig sind und das sind bestimmt einige sollen seine Texte übersetzen.......

    Würde ER seine Texte ins deutsche Übersetzen, müßte es nur EINER tun!!!!!!!

    Ich hab da mal im Job mit asiatischen KFZ Kunden alle Probleme in englisch besprochen wobei aber auch die sich bemüht haben deutsch zu sprechen....

    Alos meine Lösung::klatsch:klatsch:klatsch

    EINER für ALLE und nicht ALLE für EINEN:!::!::!:

    einen schönen Tag noch und Ende Gelände ........:wink:wink:wink

    So long LH

    Wie es scheint, so bekommt er doch die Informationen, die er braucht.


    Zumal es sich hier ja sogar um ein Problem bei einer Fremdmarke innerhalb eines Ducatoforums handelt.


    Es geht hier um den J5. Und, wie ich sehe, gibt es hier einige Spezies für diesen Motor, die auch super im Englischen korrespondieren können.


    So entstehen deutlich weniger Missverständnisse, als wenn man in einer Nicht -Muttersprache holprig versucht etwas zu erklären oder sich zu übersetzen.


    Hier geht es ja um ein Problem eines Einzelnen und nicht darum, dass das ein Einzelner das Forum damit unterhalten soll.


    Ich verstehe z.B. nichts von Elektronik und Anwendung in diesem Bereich. Soll nun jeder sein Elektronik-Problem so erklären, dass ein Dussel wie ich das auch verstehe, oder lieber das so verfachlichen/versachliche, dass derjenige auch entsprechende Antworten bekommt, die er braucht.


    Und ich finde es zum Beispiel klasse, dass er einen am Laufenden hält, wo andere die Lösung des Problems oftmals nach langer Diskussion dann doch schuldig bleiben.


    Gruß Jerome

    Ich bin nicht auf der Welt um so zu sein, wie andere mich gerne hätten...

    Zitat von Zollie

    Also!

    Today a 70km test drive, temperature was good. At home, reversing in my driveway... temperature rising to 90! Let some air out of the heating rad and out of the big rad, below 90 again.

    I hope that after the 70km ride these were the last air bubbles!

    I know about the ventilation / bleeding problems on this engine, but never had any problems by myself here. The last two times (first one after the revision, second one when sealing the waterpump a second time) I just opened the bleeder on top of the water pump, filled up the system, closed the bleeder, started the engine, filled as long as the water reservoir got empty. Then opened the two bleeders near the waterpump again while running. Just very little air came out here.

    That's it. Didn't do more. But maybe that's because of limnes tip, to add a automatic bleeding into the system. But on the other hand I also did not have problems with air in the system before that change was done. Years ago I flushed and cleaned the cooling system and bought a new radiator. Also no problems with air in the system back then.

    See pictures attached, maybe that could be a solution for you.