J5 280 TurboDiesel overheats randomly...

    HI,

    90 degrees are no problem at all, because that ist normal.

    110- 120 dregrees makes problems!

    LG Cerberus

    Nichts ist so beständig wie der Wandel ( Heraklit von Ephesus )

    Temp instruments are good, checked with infrared meter!


    90 degr is okay, but not when stationary and with pressure building up under the filler cap.


    this idea of connecting the radiator with the reservoir is fantastic!! I already ordered the parts to fix this myself!!
    would there be a reason not to do the same with the hose from the heating radiator/valve??

    Zitat

    this idea of connecting the radiator with the reservoir is fantastic

    Achtung!

    Der Verbindungsschlauch muss entweder einen sehr kleinen Durchmesser haben oder es muss eine Drossel in den Schlauch (ca 2 mm Durchmesser)!!

    Sonst erzeugt man einen Kurzschluss im Wasserkreislauf!

    Durch die Drossel kann zwar die Luft in den Ausgleichsbehälter entweichen aber nur sehr wenig Kühlwasser. Die Drossel kann zum Beispiel ein Stück gequetschtes Rohr sein.

    Sebbi, bei deinem großen Kühler ist diese Drossel im Anschluss am Kühler bereits integriert.

    LG

    Wolfgang

    Temp rising when standing is normal. The water pump does a lousy job when running on low rpm.

    The heat from driving accumulates and the head gets hot.

    Have that every time when in a traffic jam. Manually switched fans solve that. Or just rising the motor speed with the foot when standing in a jam.

    Grüße, Sebbi
    ______________
    Gesendet von meinem myPhone mit TalkABull.

    What Sebbi wrote is absolutely correct.I have done the same,both radiators are running by manual switch and I have an additional Oil cooler with own radiator installed,this radiator is manually switched too.After longer distances I open the motor cover when I stop driving,so the heat can leave the motor,that is the best for the engine.When I have stop and go,I use all radiators to prevent high temperatures in the engine,specially if there are high temperatures outside in summer.


    Greetings Arno

    Hello Zollie,

    and after Motor-Stop you can let work the cooling Fans a littel bit longer than the Engine, for example one minute,

    to take the Watertemperature in the Engine-Block down by Thermosyphon cooling.

    It works in ignition position on :wink

    Regards Emil

    And for the Charger it is the best to let the engine run for approx.2 Minutes before you stop the engine.In this two minutes the turbo can come down from the high rpm and the temperatures of the turbo can come down too.


    Greetings Arno

    Cool thanks all! I have had a lot of old turbodiesel, W123 and Passat 32b, so I know about the cooling after driving :prost

    I Installed the switches, and while I was messing with the dash, I installed a usb plug and made a phone holder :)

    Zitat von Sebbi

    How is the condition of the v-belts? Especially that double one which comes from the camshaft and drives the water pump. You wrote that you heared a sound and then it started to overheat again. Maybe you have a problem with one of the ancillary unit's bearings. Combine that with a loose belt to the water pump (or even one of the two missing) and you might get a non rotating pump.

    Regarding your question about things to do before going on a longer roadtrip: Wolfgang (limnes) nailed it. I would add all that v-belts to that list. Order them twice. They cost almost nothing, and take almost no space under the seat. Also ensure that the double belt of the water pump is NOT a ribbed belt. Get a few SPZ 812. Also take care of the tensioner. It is mounted on the inside, not on the outside. (That is why a ribbed belt does not work here.)

    All belts were new when I replaced the water pump. Only the shop gave me ribbed belts for the pump, automatic webshop partslist...

    Thanks for the tip, yesterday I replaced with the SPZ and have 2 spares in my box! :)